Last spring, as I stood in my slightly lonely vegetable garden in Melbourne, a brilliant idea suddenly came to me: I had to grow big, red, sweet and sour tomatoes with my own hands. But right from the start I ran into a problem: when is the earliest you can plant tomatoes in Melbourne?
In order to find the answer, I looked through various materials, consulted with nearby gardening experts, and looked everywhere for the answer.
I determined the critical time for tomato planting
I remember meeting an experienced gardening neighbour, an elderly gentleman, at the weekend farmers’ market.
He is a famous vegetable grower in our area, and his yard is full of flowers and vegetables all year round. I seized the opportunity to ask him about growing tomatoes.
The old man smiled kindly and told me that usually the soil temperature is warm enough in mid-October to transplant tomato seedlings into the garden, and the risk of frost is also low at that time.
Hearing this answer, I was ecstatic, and after returning home, I began to carefully prepare the seedlings, eager to plant my tomato dream in mid-October.
- Indoor sowing time: Later, I joined an online gardening group where enthusiasts from all over the world share their growing experiences. I learned that tomato seeds can be sown indoors in seed trays or pots 6–8 weeks before the average last frost date. In Los Angeles, for example, the earliest you can sow is mid-January. With this in mind, I prepared the seeds and containers early in Melbourne. As I gently buried the tiny seeds in the soil, I could already imagine them sprouting, and my heart was full of anticipation.
- Outdoor transplanting essentials: As time passed, the seedlings grew strong indoors. I checked on them every morning first thing, watering and airing them out. As the weather continued to warm, I started thinking about transplanting. I remembered an expert from a community gardening workshop mentioning that seedlings should only be moved outdoors once the risk of frost has completely passed. In Los Angeles, this is usually between the end of March and mid-May, but in Melbourne, the timing may be different, but the principle is the same. Soil temperature is also crucial, as tomatoes like a soil temperature of at least 15.5°C (60°F). So I bought a soil thermometer and checked the temperature every day. Finally, when the conditions were right, I happily transplanted the seedlings outdoors, just like watching my child take its first steps into independence.
Choosing the right container
As there was limited space in the yard, I initially struggled with whether to plant in pots or directly in the ground. Then, I saw tomatoes growing healthily and beautifully in a pot at a gardening exhibition, and that made my mind up.
Growing tomatoes in a pot has many advantages: you can easily control the soil mixture, drainage and sunlight exposure. This is perfect for someone like me who wants to take care of every tomato. In addition, pots help prevent soil-borne diseases and reduce the risk of infection.
Plant pots are also easy to transport, and you can move them around to get the best possible sun exposure or climate protection – ideal for apartment dwellers or those with small gardens. So, I set off on my journey of growing tomatoes in plant pots with confidence.
Preparing high-quality soil
Before I started growing tomatoes on a large scale, I put a lot of effort into fertilising the soil. I learned that compost is very beneficial for tomatoes and many other plants, as it adds nutrients and improves the soil structure while releasing nutrients continuously throughout the growing season.
I also added slow-release fertiliser. Over the course of a few weekends, I carefully improved the soil, mixing the compost and fertiliser evenly in the hope of creating the perfect growing environment for the tomatoes.
Learn about companion planting and avoid
avoiding planting with other nightshade plants
Once, I visited a friend’s (also a gardening enthusiast) garden and found that she had planted tomatoes with peppers and aubergines.
Before long, she began complaining that the tomatoes and the other plants were suffering from pests and diseases that just wouldn’t go away.
Remember that tomatoes belong to the nightshade family, so avoid growing them with peppers, aubergines or potatoes, as they are also susceptible to the same pests and diseases.
To keep your tomatoes healthy, it is best to avoid growing nightshade vegetables in the same patch of soil for at least three years. My friend’s experience made me extra cautious about mixing crops.
Can peppers and tomatoes be grown together?
In my friend’s garden, I saw peppers and tomatoes growing side by side and both growing well. I asked her curiously.
She explained that peppers and tomatoes both like plenty of sunlight, well-drained soil and frequent watering, and that they have similar growing conditions.
In hot weather, tomatoes can provide shade for peppers, and the spicy aroma of peppers can keep some tomato pests away, so they are a good match.
Both plants grow upright, so raised beds or containers can be used to maximise space, which is ideal for small gardens. Inspired, I decided to try this pairing next time.
Why not plant cucumbers near tomatoes?
I once tried growing tomatoes and cucumbers together, thinking their green leaves could coexist peacefully. But problems soon arose.
Both plants require a lot of nutrients, water and sunlight, so they ended up competing with each other and hindering each other’s growth.
If left unchecked, the cucumber vines would have shaded the tomato plants, reducing sunlight and affecting fruit production.
They were also susceptible to the same pests and diseases, increasing the risk of cross-contamination. Some diseases, such as cucumber mosaic virus, can infect both tomatoes and cucumbers. After this failure, I vowed never to plant cucumbers near tomatoes again.
Avoid common planting mistakes
Mistake 1: Planting too early or too late
I made a lot of mistakes when growing tomatoes in the early stages. Once, I planted the tomatoes too early out of impatience, and the seedlings almost froze to death as a result.
Cold soil can hinder root growth and make it more difficult for the plant to absorb nutrients. Low temperatures and lack of sunlight can cause the seedlings to be pale and weak, with thin stems. Late frosts can kill seedlings or severely damage them, causing stunted growth. Planting too late can delay the growth cycle, causing the fruit to ripen when the weather gets colder. In Melbourne, mid-October is usually the best time to plant.
Mistake 2: Starting with poor seedlings
Another time, I was careless and bought some poor-quality seedlings, and they never grew well. Healthy, strong seedlings are the foundation. Even with careful care, weak or diseased seedlings will struggle to thrive. Choose seedlings with strong stems, lush leaves and no pests or diseases.
Mistake 3: Planting too shallowly
Planting too shallowly can lead to an unstable root system. Burying the stem deeper than the root ball in the soil helps the roots to become stronger, which is essential for supporting heavy fruit. A strong root system also improves the absorption of water and nutrients and helps the plant to withstand droughts and temperature fluctuations.
Mistake 4: Irregular watering
Irregular watering – either too much or too little – can lead to uneven growth. Tomatoes need soil that retains a constant level of moisture (not waterlogging).
Sandy soil dries out easily (water every 2–3 days), clay soil retains moisture (water once a week), and potted plants dry out more quickly than those in the ground. Water the base once a week to encourage the roots to grow deeper, and check the soil moisture visually or with a moisture meter.
Mistake 5: Watering from above
Watering from above can cause the leaves to become damp, which can trigger fungal diseases. Always water from the bottom to keep the leaves dry and healthy.
Mistake 6: Not supporting the tomatoes
At first, I didn’t support the tomatoes, and the plants spread out. Tomatoes grow quickly, and the heavy fruit can cause the plants to sag. Supports or trellises can support vertical growth, improve air circulation and light, and increase yields.
Mastering tomato care
In the early stages, I struggled with watering – too much water can lead to root rot, while too little can lead to drought. A neighbour whose tomatoes were growing well advised keeping the soil moist, but not soggy.
A deep weekly watering to the roots encourages root growth. I bought a hygrometer to monitor soil moisture, and in this way my tomatoes grew luxuriantly.
Choosing tomato fertiliser
Choosing the right fertiliser requires research. Some growers prefer high-phosphorus compound fertilisers (with a moderate nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium ratio). Special fertiliser for tomatoes (e.g. 3-4-6 or 4-7-10) works well. Avoid over-fertilising – less is more. After experimenting, I found the most suitable fertiliser and my tomatoes grew vigorously.
Temperature tolerance
I was worried about my tomatoes during the sudden temperature drop in Melbourne. Research shows that tomatoes can temporarily tolerate temperatures above 40°C if they are first adapted to lower temperatures. Growth slows or stops at temperatures below 50°F (10°C).
Temperatures consistently below 55°F (13°C) can cause flowers to drop. Frost (≤32°F/0°C) can kill the plant. If the temperature falls below 40°F (4°C), especially for several nights in a row, the plants should be protected with mulch or blankets. I now regularly check the weather forecast to protect my tomatoes.
Why do you put eggs in the planting holes?
At a relative’s farm, I saw them put eggs in the planting holes for tomatoes. They explained that the eggshells provide calcium, which is essential for healthy fruit and to prevent blossom-end rot.
As the eggs decompose, the calcium is slowly released to replenish the soil. Out of curiosity, I tried it at home – it was a quirky but interesting experiment.
The effect of Epsom salts
A gardening forum user had highly recommended Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) for growing tomatoes. Magnesium is key to chlorophyll production, which promotes photosynthesis and healthy leaves.
It also aids in the uptake of nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus, improving plant vigour and yield. Some growers have reported that they have harvested more flowers and fruits after using Epsom salts. Magnesium deficiency can cause yellowing of leaves and fewer fruits. I was excited to buy some Epsom salts to try.
Using coffee grounds
In the café, I noticed the coffee grounds that were being discarded and thought about their horticultural potential. Research shows that adding coffee grounds before planting is harmless, but adding them during growth should be avoided. Next time, I will take some coffee grounds from the café to experiment.
Can I plant tomatoes in June?
Last June, despite having already planted beans, melons and zucchini, I was craving tomatoes. A gardening blogger mentioned that tomatoes can be planted in June, even in cooler weather. I sowed the seeds on 1 June and eagerly awaited their germination, hoping for a bumper crop in the summer.
When black spots appeared on the leaves, I panicked and thought they were sick. An expert explained that this was sunburn caused by strong afternoon sunlight. Tomatoes prefer morning sun, as it dries the dew and reduces the risk of fungus.
Morning light promotes photosynthesis and triggers the plant’s daily growth. In hot climates, afternoon sun can burn plants. I now place the tomatoes in a place where they get morning sun and afternoon shade.
Watering frequency for different soil types
- Sandy soil: Evaporates water quickly, water every 2-3 days.
- Clay soil: Holds water well, water once a week.
- Potted plants: Evaporate moisture quickly, so water more often than plants in the ground.
Common mistakes when growing tomatoes
- Sowing at the wrong time.
- Using poor quality seedlings.
- Sowing too shallow.
- Uneven watering.
- Watering from above.
- Neglecting support.
Benefits of growing tomatoes in containers
- Control of soil, drainage and sunlight.
- Protection against soil-borne diseases.
- Easy to transport and obtain optimal conditions.
- Suitable for limited space.